Chicago Roots Shape San Diego Author’s Creative Challah and Babka

By Eva Trieger

SAN DIEGO — The saying goes that if you ask two Jews for their opinion on most topics, you will get three answers. While that may be so, one overriding unifier is our love of homemade challah and decadent babkas. These Jewish baked goods have helped inform the American-Jewish identity of baker and blogger Marissa Wojcik. Her new book, Modern Jewish Breads: Recipes from North Shore to South Bay, recalls the olfactory conjurings that are universal to all Jews.

Marissa’s blog, North Shore to South Bay, reveals her Midwestern roots, as she shares her Russian ancestry and memories of growing up in a Reform Jewish household. A history major, the author was fascinated by how recipes survive generations. Her own grandmother, a Holocaust survivor, used to bake challah only on Rosh Hashanah. The remaining Shabbatot, store-bought challah graced the table. However, Marissa’s bubbie did not teach her how to make the special traditional bread. In fact, Marissa did not attempt her first challah until the age of 23. “How hard could it be?” she wondered.

The challah/babka baker told me that the first few loaves were challenging because she is not a patient person. Waiting for the bread to rise was no mean feat. However, she learned to let it rise and told me that the challah baking experience became her time to connect with herself, pray, meditate, and access her spirituality. While the kneading and rising time required her concentration, Marissa was able to disconnect from her week and reconnect with her forebears and her ancestors in a meaningful, tangible way.

Each intriguing recipe begins with a memory of the author’s growing up in Chicago and her subsequent arrival in California. The 21 recipes she shares started during COVID-19, when she wanted to be close to family but had become a California transplant, living here in San Diego with husband, Noah.

“Does Noah bake with you?” I wanted to know. I was told he is the official taste tester and that his braiding skills were put to the test and found wanting. Nonetheless, he has been, and continues to be a staunch supporter of Marissa’s ingenuity.

While the recipes are not kosher, many contain directions about how to make them kosher. This includes using oil, not butter, and substituting almond milk for cow’s milk. These departures create a parve challah that may be consumed with a fleishik (meat) Shabbat dinner.

As for the innovative and daring recipes, I will just leave you with some tantalizing names. There truly is a savory or sweet treat for every palate. Can you imagine Chicago Hot Dog Babka? What about Borscht Challah? And for the health nut in you, consider Golden Milk Latte Challah starring that anti-inflammatory, turmeric. And proving that challah has no judgment or exclusive provenance, take a look at the rainbow pride challah, which boasts six strands, intertwined to three in the end. Brilliant!

Having only ever visited Chicago, I now long for the Jewish delis and pizza joints Marissa mentions in her book. I’m a stranger to Zingerman’s, Max & Benny’s, and Lou Malnati’s pizza, but I’m sure they make a deep dish “like nobody’s business.”

Does this adventurous baker have advice for wannabe bakers? “Try it. Get in the kitchen and make challah! Don’t be afraid to fail.” Marissa Wojcik’ book, Modern Jewish Breads: Recipes From North Shore to South Bay, may be purchased online here.

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