By Jacob Kamaras
Spoiler alert: The following review reveals key plot elements from “Kugel.”
LA JOLLA, California — According to the worldview of Nuchem Shtisel, one of the lead characters in the newly released series Kugel, it’s important to distinguish between the important and petty matters in life — and always focus on the petty.
This is what makes Nuchem (played by Sasson Gabay) akin to the Haredi version of Curb Your Enthusiasm’s Larry David. He’s a character you’ll love to hate — a curmudgeon, even a misanthrope, who pursues outlandish ideas in cringeworthy social and business situations. Then at other times, when he demonstrates vulnerability, you’ll straight-up love him.
Fans of the award-winning Israeli television drama series Shtisel will recognize Nuchem as the brother of Shulem Shtisel and the uncle of Akiva Shtisel. But rather than a supporting actor, he plays a leading role this time around in the Shtisel spin-off series, Kugel, alongside his daughter Libi (Hadas Yaron).
Kugel’s first season launched February 28 on the Israeli global streaming platform IZZY, the same network that’s now also streaming all three seasons of Shtisel. The new series is set in the Haredi community of Antwerp, Belgium, years prior to the events of Shtisel in Jerusalem. Nuchem is a jewelry dealer whose wife, Yides (Mili Avital), asks for a divorce because she can no longer tolerate his dishonesty. For instance, Nuchem sells Yides’ mother’s amulet shortly after her death.
Perhaps his most striking Larry David-like behavior comes when he approaches widows during the Shiva mourning period about paying for expensive jewelry under the false premise that their late husbands had commissioned the pieces for them, or when he goes to great lengths to achieve his obsession of gaining membership into a highly exclusive Svitz (bath house) for gvirim (wealthy people).
When Nuchem pursues his own interests, he occasionally displays a more generous spirit. Amid his courtship of Pnina Baumbach, a recently widowed woman who inherited a restaurant that specializes in Jerusalem-style noodle kugels, he breaks his habit and refuses to let her pay for a pearl necklace that her late husband had allegedly ordered for her. When Pnina asks Nuchem how she can possibly repay him, he replies, “Save the burnt pieces of kugel for me, that’ll be plenty.” Given the special place in his heart for that burnt part of a slice of kugel, Nuchem later becomes Pnina’s business partner as they try to salvage the restaurant.
The tender side of Nuchem’s personality also comes out in his relationship with Libi, the 22-year-old daughter whom he cares for on his own after Yides leaves them. He’s supportive of her unconventional pursuit (from a Haredi perspective) of a career in creative writing, and he attempts to comfort her in challenging times with words of wisdom such as “life is a torte cake.” While that expression is reminiscent of “life is like a box of chocolates” from Forrest Gump, its meaning is somewhat unclear.
Libi’s story arc resembles that of Akiva Shtisel, her cousin from the prior series. They both struggle to find a shidduch (match), and her ambition as an author mirrors Akiva’s passion as a painter. In Shtisel, these cousins get engaged despite Nuchem’s objections, followed by Libi’s death offscreen between the second and third seasons. In this prequel, Kugel, viewers gain new insights into their parallel lives. Libi’s journey of personal growth embodies the poignant character development that made so many viewers fall in love with Shtisel and will also attract them to a slice of Kugel.
While Libi’s character has plenty of depth and intrigue, Kugel is a must-watch mainly thanks to Nuchem. (That is, at least through the four episodes that were screened by this reviewer, amounting to half of the season). The conflicting sides of his character will make you smile, cringe, and feel all sorts of other emotions.
In the words of Larry David, Nuchem’s dynamic presence makes Kugel “pretty, pretty, pretty good.”
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Public relations executive Jacob Kamaras is a former publisher and editor of San Diego Jewish World.