Press Notes (Adventures in San Diego Jewish History, April 5, 1957, Part 2)
Southwestern Jewish Press, April 5, 1957, Pages 3, 10, 11
By Julia Kaufman
Just tuned in the Tiajuana radio station for a little mood music to get me back to Mexico City where I left off my last column. The result was instantaneous. The familiar Coca-Cola chant, heard throughout Mexico, followed by a Latin rhythm, was all I needed to set me back on the Mexican highways.
In Mexico, as in other countries, there are popular tourist towns, where pleasure and sports are highlighted, or quiet resorts surrounded by the culture and beauty of Old Mexico. I was intent on covering both, so I chose first a flight to Acapulco, which is south of Mexico City, and then a motor trip to Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende and Queretaro, in the opposite direction.
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Acapulco — I had an inkling of what to expect when a Mexican friend proudly informed me that Stateside sun worshipers were changing their course from Miami Beach to Acapulco — Mexico’s most popular vacation resort. Except for the tropical climate and the scenery, the paradise found by travelers in the 16th century is gradually being lost in a jungle of oversized, ultra-modern hotels, which seem to hem in the few remaining picturesque, native huts that dot the hillsides. For this reason, I was happy to note, upon my arrival, that the Del Monte Hotel was situated high up on a hill overlooking the bay and the city. At night, viewed from the terrace outside my room, the hodgepodge of buildings disappeared and a myriad of colored lights took their place.
For daytime pleasure, the visitor has a choice of water skiing, sailing, swimming, fishing, golf, or just relaxing on the beach. Dancing, night club entertainment and moonlight cruises are on the ful list for the tropical evenings.
In thinking back on my experiences in Mexico, I cannot divorce sight from sound. If I had any hope of resting in Acapulco, it was dispelled my first no-so-silent night. The hills of Acapulco seemed to capture and then lift all the sounds from the busy life below. Traffic noises…the blare of a Mexican trumpet from a nearby night club … the cackling of hens and crowing roosters, who evidently work on night shifts. Just as I began to doze off, the beating of drums drew me out of bed in time to see a spectacular scene of flaming torches slowly winding through the hills, their bearers totally invisible in the dark. (I learned the next morning that it was a religious observance involving a torchlight procession).
The next night, I decided to follow the old adage, “If you can beat ’em — join ’em.” Descending from my lofty height, I joined the fun, learned to Cha-Cha-Cha at the Bum Bum Club — a popular night spot on “Morning Beach”–and returned home too early in the morning to worry about night sounds.
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On the Bay — I found the trip in the glass bottom boar relaxing and interesting. I saw J.P. Morgan’s sunken yacht, the “Corsair” and an old Spanish Galleon in their watery graves …diving boys brought us coral, round porcupine fish, sea spiders and poisonous sea urchins resembling pin cushions with long needles. The most amusing looking fish was the blow fish its four Bugs Bunny teeth and velvety skin, blown out like a balloon. Nestled in the hills were large, multiple level mansions owned by Mexican and American celebrities. I held my breath as I watched a young boy dive from a high cliff –just missing the rocks in the water below. The boy, evidently a novice, hesitated and had to be coaxed by his friends in the boat. He emerged from the water with a wide grin of pride in his accomplishment. Most of these boys live on the beach, supporting themselves by the few pesos they earn from diving.
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Our Misguided Guide — Just when I was becoming acclimated to Acapulco, I returned to Mexico City fo my four day trip to Guanajuato. Our guide, a stocky ,dark skinned young man, arrived at 8:30 a.m. in a pin striped suit and sun glasses. This unusual attire for a long motor trip was explained by the fact that he had received the assignment after returning home from an all night and early morning tour of Mexico City’s night life. We also learned that it had been nine years since he had made the trip north … that he was accustomed to touring with the movie celebrities … loved Acapulco… dancing and night life. He didn’t even attempt to hide his disappointment over his fate at gaving to shepherd two females on what promised to be one great big bore for him.
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Queretaro — After several mistakes in direction, we arrived at our first destination – Queretaro — for a late lunch. The guide got his first break — everything was closed until 4 p.m. for the siesta period, so sightseeing was out. An exception was made at the Convento de la Cruz, where Maximillian, the Austrian Empire of Mexico, spent his last days before facing a firing squad of revolutionists. Probably the most startling sight I saw in this old Mexican town was an “early American” Sears-Roebuck.
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On The Road — There is a similarity in scenery except where man has added his unique touch. On a recent trip into California desert, I passed cacti, palm trees, cultivated fields, rugged terrain and snow-capped mountains. On my trip into Mexican country, the material was the same but the pattern was different. Neat rows of cacti are used to separate fields and provide the liquid for the “pulque,” a favorite drink in Mexico. Another specie of cactus — the tall, slim type — is used as a wind break. We passed sun-baked villages with adobe huts, saw Indians washing clothes at streams, working in the fields, or riding on the far end of their heavily-laden burros. I noted that the young children were never far from their parents — either tucked carefully under the mother’s shawl or clinging to papa on the back of a burro or pony. Passing through towns, a glimpse behind an occasional open door revealed either courtyards filled with flowers, statuary and fountains, or small orchards and vegetable patches. It seemed a pity to hide all this color behind tall, barrack-like walls.
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Driving into San Miguel de Allende was like entering a beautiful landscape painting. the town has a wealth of colonial architecture, which draws hundreds of Americans and Canadians each year to attend its Instituto Allende , where almost every form of arts and crafts is taught. The San Francisco Hotel, where we spent the night, had a happy combination of old Spanish architecture and modern plumbing. Unfortunately, we could not remain long enough to thoroughly explore this charming town.
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Guanajuato — The fact that I purchased more picture post cards in Guanajuato is evidece of the rich store of beauty it had to offer. Here again I found the merging of the old and new. As I drove through the city admiring the beautiful university, the opera house, the modern theatre and the residential section of attractive homes, I also noted that burros and cars share the same road, and men, women and children had to carry large clay jugs of water to their homes in the hills. In spite of the extremes of living conditions, all the children I saw were healthy looking, clean and happy.
I took a special tour with a local guide on my first evening in Guanajuato. At the time of my visit a Theatre Arts Festival was in progress. Each year a festival is held in which plays are performed, without charge, for the residents, in different parts of the city. When we arrived, the play had already begun and the square in front of the church was filled. Surrounding buildings and balconies were used for spotlights and part of the setting. The play was a comedy by Cervantes; the costumes were colorful, and the pantomime so good that I found myself understanding and laughing in spite of the language barrier. The lighting effects and natural setting gave a feeling of realism hard to duplicate in an indoor theatre. Even an accidental of a burro tied to a nearby tree seemed perfectly timed. I felt when I left as though I had been privileged to share an experience with the residents of Guanajuato.
It was off season for the Opera House but the caretaker switched on the lights for us and showed us around. It took thirty years to build and at least four types of architecture are represented. The ornate, filigree work around its four balconies is the most dominant feature of the interior.
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The modern concert hall and theater, which I visited next, had clean cut lines and was far more representative of today’s Mexico. While I was there, they were testing the revolving stage and I was invited to go ’round — an invitation I declined.
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The next day, Sunday, was Flag Day and Market Day — a combination which made a gala day for the townspeople. Church bells rang, bands played, there were speeches in the park and parades through the streets. Being a serious tourist I had no time for such frivolities, so I headed for the catacombs, situated high up in the hills — a gruesome contrast to the life of gaiety below. Every seven years the bodies are removed from the cemetery and the bones and skulls added to the neat pile in the Catacombs. One room had skeletons set upright against a wall, in the contortive positions in which they had been found. I barely heard the explanation “buried alive” because I was trying to break a record ascending a narrow, spiral staircase to the open air and sunshine.
The rest of the day was spent visiting cathedrals and admiring the panoramic views from high mountain tops. Young children are stationed t popular tourist sites ready to take care of your car or sell little trinkets. Some, the children of prisoners, sell carved ornaments made by their parents. I purchased walnut shells divided into several sections, held together by tiny hinges. Each section contains incredibly small figures. One shell depicted a wedding, one a bullfight and another marachas (troubadours) — exceptionally delicate work for men who did manual labor by day.
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The Scenic Route — We left Guanajuato early the next morning for a full day’s motor trip to Mexico City via the scenic route — over high mountain ranges. We admired the trim villages and the little girls with their neat braids and starched dresses. By way of contrast, we visited isolated farms, snapping pictures at wells where shy Indian girls and boys were filling their pails and jugs. They probably found us peculiar but harmless. All around us were domestic animals. We dodged pigs, geese and the ever-present mangy ooking dogs, with whom we thought it wise to share the balance of our box lunch.
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‘Solo Hablo Ingles’ (I speak only English) — Wherever we went we found the Mexicans eager to learn English, and I was beginning to feel like Professor Higgins of ‘Fair Lady’ fame. It is a tremendous asset to know the language of a country. However, even with this knowledge, it is sometimes difficult to understand the many dialects encountered in a strange land. I was told that among the Indians, ho constitute 80% of the population, there are about 250 dialects. Whenever I got into difficulty, I played a game of charades. Sometimes I made contact — on other occasions the results were quite humorous. In every case, a bond of laughter was established and a new friend was made. One hotel manager chose ignorance and bliss. When a tourist attempted to lodge a complaint, he beamed happily and said, “wonderful” — the only word he knew. I wish I could use the same strategem now that I’m back in the office.
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“…Who, mixed with every race, are lost in none” — Back in Mexico City, I visited the Del Centro Deportivo Israelita (Jewish Sports Club.) I believe I can safely say that nothing of its kind exists anywhere else in the world. It combines the best features of a Jewish Community Center and a Country Club. The Club was built six and a half years ago by men and women who were at the time considered impractical visionaries. Here are some of the statistics given to me. They have a membership of 3,000 families (10,000 people), with an attendance of 500 to 600 a night and 5,000 on Sunday.
Expensive is the best adjective to describe my impression of this fabulous dream come-true. Large, airy buildings with that indoor-outdoor appearance … individual classrooms and lecture halls. … library … a tastefully decorated ballroom, with adjoining dining hall (capacity 900 people)…. auditorium for shows, movies and experimental theater … bowling alley with five lanes … soft drink bar and lunch room … rooms for indoor games and cards… steam and massage rooms. Outdoors there were facilities for every sport enjoyed by the Mexicans. Two swimming pools (one for the children, the other, larger than Olympic size)…14 tennis courts… 3 basketball courts… 5 jai alai courts and handball courts … a soccer field, etc. A large area is set aside for a fully equipped playground for the young children.
The current fee for membership is 70 pesos a month for a family, 40 pesos for single memberships and 20 pesos for students. (12.50 pesos to the dollar.)
On the evening I visited the Club, a doctor was speaking on cancer and the huge parking lot was rapidly being filled. Eva Gitlin, the pretty senorita, who was conducting me around, pointed out the display of graphic and documentary material depicting the contribution of Mexican Jewry to the growth of Mexico.
The Jews in Mexico City have four synagogues and four yeshivas. Their population is approximately 25,000.
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A Shower For the Bride – I eagerly accepted the invitation to attend a bridal shower in Mexico City, wondering how it would differ from ours at home. When I entered the foyer of the large apartment, I found it hard to believe that I was really in Mexico City. The kitchen, large combination living-dining room, den, nursery and bedroom were counterparts–even to the type of furnishings–of homes I had visited in the States. The bride to be, who graciously welcomed me, was gowned in a high-styled sheath dress.
It shouldn’t have been a surprise to me when I suddenly heard the word “machatenistah” (in-law) and other Yiddish idioms, mixed in with Spanish. Certain Yiddish expressions lose their warmth and color in translation.
American made electrical appliances and Pyrex dishes were among the many miscellaneous gifts. While the packages were being opened, a large rolling pin was passed around for the signature of forty guests.
In addition to the delicacies prepared by a professional caterer, there were the traditional strudel and home made cookies. The buffet supper included scooped-out, cleverly decorated pineapples and watermelons, filled with strawberries and lush fruits, turkey, cold cuts, salads, tortillas, enchiladas and farfel.
Immediately after eating, card tables were set up for bridge, poker, gin and canasta. Sound familiar?
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Odds’n Ends: Mexico City is slowly sinking which is causing grave concern…the President’s term of office is now six years … purchases are made extensively on the installment plan, which means more people own TV sets than I had imagined… American movies and rock ‘n roll are popular (natch)…to some Elvis Presley may be a “powerful argument in favor of compulsory military service,” but to the young people in Mexico City he’s the most. Viva La Mexico!