By Rabbi Leonard Rosenthal
SAN DIEGO — Nothing in Jewish life is easy.
What could be complicated about a triangular shaped pastry with filling inside? Hamantaschen, the preferred perennial Purim treat, seem simple enough at face value. But a little research proves that this holiday delicacy has a vast and perplexing history.
First of all, let’s begin with its name. Is hamantaschen singular or plural? In Yiddish, it is clearly plural, as in, “Please pass some of those scrumptious hamantaschen.” The singular is “hamantasch.” Yet, that does not stop people from using the plural even when they are referring to the singular, as in, “That prune hamantaschen I just ate was delicious.”
But that’s nothing compared to the etymology of its name. Why is a hamantasch called a hamantasch?
The most common derivation is that this three-cornered pastry’s name and shape refer to “Haman’s pocket.” Haman, and then, tasch, tasch being German for “pouch” or “pocket.” But what does “Haman’s pocket” have to do with the Purim story? Some say it is a sly reference to the money that Haman paid King Achashveirosh for permission to kill the Jews. (Boo! Hiss!)
Others believe hamantaschen comes from the Yiddish or German mohn-taschen, meaning “poppy seed pocket,” which was a common German pastry. The jump from mohn-taschen to hamantaschen is but a short one!
However, “Naked Archaeologist” Simcha Jacobovici claims that hamantaschen have nothing to do with Haman’s pockets or poppy seed pastries. He insists that the triangular shaped goodies resemble a type of dice that was used in ancient Persia. Thus, hamantaschen represent the lots (“purim“) that Haman cast to decide the fate of the Jews.
Then there are those, such as me, who were taught that the triangular shaped cookie resembles Haman’s three-cornered hat.
oznei haman, Haman’s ears. Why, has never been clear to me.
Now, we come to the controversial question of filling.
L.V. Anderson writing on the Slate blog “Browbeat” insists that an authentic hamantasch contains poppy and only poppy filling. It does not contain, “…chocolate, jam, or any other number of inferior fillings. Prunes, chocolate, and jam are great, but hamantaschen are neither the time nor the place for them.”
Apparently, Ms. Anderson is a hamantasch snob. She would probably have had apoplexy if she saw the hamantasch one of my students ate this week which was filled to the brim with Hershey’s kisses! I, on the other hand, was envious!
Finally, what about the dough?
When I was growing up, one had the option of eating yeast or cookie dough hamantaschen. I have not seen a yeast dough hamantasch in years. As far as the non-yeast version goes, I have eaten everything from wafer thin unsweetened crisp, to inch thick sugar cookie style, to whole wheat cookie dough variations. Today it seems as if anything goes when it comes to making hamantaschen.
Although many excellent bakers have perfected their own hamantaschen recipes, IMHO my wife, Judy, makes the best. (No, I don’t have to say that!) Years ago she adapted a Greek style cookie dough for the covering, which she roles exquisitely thin, and then forms in perfect triangular shape around a generous portion of home made filling: apricot, prune, and date. (To be completely honest, she also makes mohn hamantaschen, but she uses pre-prepared poppy seed filling.)
If you don’t have your own favorite recipe and want to try hers, I have copied it below. Hopefully, you will have enough time before sundown to bake a few dozen. Please feel free to use whatever filling you wish. I promise not to tell Ms. Anderson!
(For an astounding number of non-traditional hamantaschen fillings, check out the following link that was sent to me by Ritual V.P. Ira Lerner: http://www.buzzfeed.com/marcelle/crazy-hamantaschen-flavors-for-purim )
For those of you who have run out of time, our Silverman Preschool and Ratner Torah School still have a few dozen for sale. For further information, please email pssec@tiferethisrael.com, or subject to availability, you may purchase them after the Purimshpiel on Saturday night or at Sunday’s Purim Carnival. For further information, please click here.
Judy Rosenthal’s Hamentaschen
1 C oil
1 C sugar
pinch baking soda
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp vanilla
1/4 tsp orange extract
1 tsp grated orange rind
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2 tsp baking powder
5+ C flour
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Egg Wash:
1 egg (or more), beaten with fork in small bowl for “glue” and glaze
Combine first set of ingredients and mix. Add 5 C flour and baking powder and mix until incorporated. If dough is too sticky, add more flour.
On floured surface and with floured rolling pin, roll out dough. Cut into circles with a glass or round cutter. Brush circles with egg wash. Put dollop of filling in center of dough circle. Fold up into three corners and pinch to seal. Brush filled and formed hamentaschen with egg wash to glaze.
Place on ungreased pan or pan lined with parchment paper or silicone baking mat.
Bake in 350 degree oven until lightly brown, approximately 20 – 30 minutes.
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Rabbi Rosenthal is spiritual leader of Tifereth Israel Synagogue in San Diego. he may be contacted at leonard.rosenthal@sdjewishworld.com