Sightseeing and eating through Israel

By Steven Kramer

Steve Kramer
Steve Kramer

ALFE MENASHE, Israel –Those familiar with my articles have become accustomed to reading relatively detailed descriptions of our short visits all over Israel. What if you are planning a 10-day trip to Israel, with so much to see? It’s hard to work out and choose an itinerary. Linda, my wife Michal’s sister, had that problem when she and her daughter Lila visited in January from New York. Michal helped her plan the trip, which turned out to be just about perfect, and not just because of the fabulous weather (during a freezing Northeast winter).

Linda has visited here several times since our aliyah in 1991, so she had seen a number of the most popular tourist sites. Lila had also come, and just a year and a half ago, she did a wonderful post-college Birthright trip. However, since her trip included less than a day in Tel Aviv, Lila felt that she had to return to see the seaside city which has become such a hot spot for young adults.

The biggest decision necessary for a ten-day trip is whether to go north or south, besides the center of the country. True, one can traverse Israel from end to end in a week (Israel is similar in size and shape to New Jersey), but then one would not have enough time in any particular location. So Linda and Lila came to the decision to be in the center and south only, giving themselves the chance to get in some beach time too.

Michal and I picked up Linda and Lila in the afternoon at Ben-Gurion Airport, only about a half-hour’s drive from our house. After a rest, we went to nearby Kfar Sava for a great dinner at Achla, part of a chain of Israeli grill restaurants. We were served an “unending” array of Middle Eastern small salad plates and fresh, hot laffa (large, airy, Syrian-style pita), along with everyone’s favorite, authentic Israeli humus.

Our next choice was skewers of grilled chicken and the french fries, known here as “chips.” Finishing the satisfying meal, mint tea or Turkish coffee and baklava were served. Everyone was more than satisfied!

The next morning we dropped the girls off in Kfar Sava, where they took a taxi for the short ride to the center of Tel Aviv. They had booked accommodations at the Diaghialev Live Art Hotel, which is near the top of the list of Travel Advisor hotels in Tel Aviv. They loved their stay at this boutique suite hotel, located right in the center of a very exciting, dynamic, and historical city.

Fountain by Yaacov Agam, Dizengoff Square, Tel Aviv
Fountain by Yaacov Agam, Dizengoff Square, Tel Aviv

Afterwards, the two described their walks all over Israel’s second largest city (about 415,000 people), gushing over the lovely spring-like weather and the interesting architecture and sights. They enjoyed their Israeli breakfasts (included in the price of the room) at the nearby Rothschild Hotel and had a wonderful dinner there as well (with a 10% off coupon.) The second day they walked in a different direction, ending up at the Kitchen Market restaurant situated over the farmers’ market in Tel Aviv’s Port (aka the Namal), where their meal was outstanding. The Port is one of many popular entertainment venues in Tel Aviv, which prides itself on being a non-stop, tiny version of Manhattan.

Clos de Gat Winery, Ayalon Valley
Clos de Gat Winery, Ayalon Valley

They were thrilled with the excellent wines at both restaurants, including one from Clos de Gat Winery. After we picked the girls up the next day, we stopped at the winery in the Ayalon Valley, a brief detour on the way to Jerusalem. There, Mirit Nener gave us a personal tour of the relatively small operation. The wine industry has become a big deal in Israel over the last few decades, no longer limiting itself to kosher, niche wines. We spent a pleasant hour there, enjoying several of their varieties and purchasing a half case at a discount.

Continuing our journey to Jerusalem, we were soon on the winding road up the slopes of the Judean Mountains, which is currently being enlarged to three lanes in each direction. On the way we stopped for a tasty Arab-style meal in Abu Ghosh, an Israeli-Arab (Christian) city known for its restaurants. Linda and Lila couldn’t get enough of the local humus, pita and shwarma.

We checked in at the Dan Panorama Hotel in Jerusalem with plenty of time

before dinner. Linda and Lila had previously visited the Israel Museum, one of our favorites, but wanted to return there to see the Shrine of the Book. We arrived in time for a tour which started with the amazing Jerusalem 2nd Temple model, adjacent to the Shrine. After learning what life was like 2,000 years ago in the Jewish capital, we entered the iconic building and learned about the Essenes, one of the many sects existing in the first century of the new millennium. There we had time to view the scrolls, which are among the world’s oldest religious artifacts.

Our hotel, which we booked via Trip Advisor, had good, clean rooms, free wifi in the lobby, and was very conveniently located. The first evening we walked to the Mamilla Mall, a pedestrian mall linking King David Street to the Jaffa Gate. A decidedly different type of mall, Mamilla has many cafes as well as shops, some with magnificent views of the Old City. The mall’s promenade is the quickest and most pleasant way to walk to the Jaffa Gate, the Old City’s most popular tourist entry point.

Western Wall and Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
Western Wall and Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem

At Jerusalem’s Mamilla Mall next to the Jaffa Gate, we had dinner at one of our favorite Jerusalem eating spots, the Mamilla Cafe, where we were treated to a wonderful selection of small plates as well as excellent Israeli wine. The next day we devoted to touring in the Old City, which Israel reclaimed from Jordanian occupation during the Six Day War (1967). We walked through the Armenian Quarter to the Jewish Quarter, a densely crowded neighborhood where mostly Orthodox and Haredi (ultra-Orthodox) Jews live.

We had to skip our planned tour of the rebuilt Hurva Synagogue due to a time change. Instead, we went to the Davidson Center adjacent to the Western Wall Plaza. There we examined the archeological remains of the 70 BCE destruction of the Temple Mount by the Romans, before watching a terrific virtual reality film depicting a Galilee pilgrim’s visit to the Temple during one of the three festivals which “required” a visit to the Temple.

Western Wall tunnel tour
Western Wall tunnel tour

Our next stop was the Western Wall Tunnel Tour. Michal and I have taken this tour a few times, but we were happy to do it again because there is always something new that has been uncovered below ground and opened for viewing. This time was no exception. We were at a subterranean level, far below the current street level, seeing the Western Wall just as the Jews and others saw it 2,000 years ago! The possible explanations of how the gigantic stones were put in place were intriguing, and it was awesome to stop at the spot closest to where the Ark of the Covenant was located in the Holy Temple.

That evening we had a special Moroccan dinner at the Darna Restaurant, a popular and very beautiful venue. We were prudent in ordering only two main courses, which were plenty for four people. Afterwards we walked around the corner to Jaffa Road, which has now become the thoroughfare of the Jerusalem Light Rail, which has transformed the street into a delight for pedestrians.

The next day we headed south towards the Negev Desert. We drove from Jerusalem (elevation 3,000 ft.) through the Judean desert down to the Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth (minus 1,350 ft.). We traveled the windy road adjacent to the large, salty lake, past Ein Gedi, Masada, and the hotels of En Bokek, breaking our journey at our friends’ house in Moshav En Tamar. The Bauman family, which includes 3 young boys, has transplanted itself from the center of Israel to the Negev’s Arava valley, where the parents are employed as teachers. The bucolic atmosphere of the moshav allows them to enjoy a pleasant and more economical lifestyle.

Moabite Mountains of Jordan as seen from Israel
Moabite Mountains of Jordan as seen from Israel

Several hours later we arrived in Eilat, our destination on the Red Sea. Again we stayed at a Dan Panorama Hotel, but this time we were located on a scenic lagoon with Jordan’s beautiful, reddish Moabite Mountains across the sea. Eilat, the southernmost tip of Israel, enjoys a very favorable climate for all but the summer months, when the temperature averages 100 degrees. (Nevertheless, summer is the most popular time for Israelis to visit Eilat.) While cool at night and in the morning, our afternoons were very pleasant. One evening we went stargazing, enjoying the Dark Sky Safari provided by Eytan Schwartz in nearby Be’er Ora. Eytan provided us with a fascinating introduction to astronomy in a location which dazzled us with a zillions stars and planets.

Underwater Observatory, Eilat
Underwater Observatory, Eilat

Of course, we found time for two excellent dinners, chosen from a list provided by Trip Advisor. We luxuriated on the beach one afternoon, something which the New Yorkers had really anticipated. We had an exciting jeep tour in the nearby mountains and along the Jordanian border before spending several hours at the Underwater Observatory, where the displays of fish and coral are spectacular. A meal at the seashore followed and then we were, once again, in the car on a four-hour drive northwards on well-paved and illuminated roads.

On the last day of Linda and Lila’s trip we traveled northwards for a special breakfast in Caesaria, where we learned about the interesting moringa tree. Our host, Nancy, prepared many of the dishes with the leaves of the moringa, which is known for its healing qualities. Nancy began educating others about moringa after experiencing its healing qualities for herself.

Our next stop was at Kibbutz En Carmel, where numerous artists and artisans have their workshops. Finally we arrived in Zichron Yaacov, one of the villages founded with funds from Baron Rothschild. There we walked on the touristy main street, which has many original buildings dating back about 100 years, housing many shops and cafes. Besides the Aaronsohn House museum, which we didn’t have time to visit, there is the First Aliyah Museum, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the week. This experience, which chronicles the life of a Jewish family’s emigration from Russia to primitive Palestine in the late 19th century, really fascinated and impressed us with the strength and determination of the pioneers of modern Israel.

Needless to say, the trip was a tremendous success. In just ten days, we traversed a substantial part of the country, giving Linda and Lila (and us) a chance to see and learn more about Israel, while having a great vacation. Next time, Haifa, Acco, Tsfat, the Galilee, and the Golan will be part of the itinerary. I hope some of my readers will be motivated to plan a similar trip to Israel, which is the ancient and modern home of the Jewish people.

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Steven Kramer is a freelance writer based in Alfe Menashe, Israel.  His works may also be read on the website, www.encounteringisrael.com  This article was previously published by the Jewish Times of South Jersey.

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